One of my most favorite cookies in the whole wide world is the dark chocolate peanut butter chip cookie at Levain Bakery in New York. It’s the chocolate-peanut butter combo, of course, but it’s also the fact that this massive cookie, with its fudgy, soft center, kind of qualifies as …
Read More »Mithai, a Diwali Staple, Sheds Its Too-Sweet Reputation
The brightly hued sweets at a mithai shop — Barbie-pink spheres of chum chum, silver-glazed diamonds of kaju katli and golden laddoos glistening with ghee — are the stuff of childhood dreams. They certainly were for Pooja Bavishi, who owns Malai Ice Cream, a scoop shop in Brooklyn and Washington, …
Read More »You Don’t Have to Deep-Fry Your Wings
Good morning. You’ll sometimes hear that you can’t make proper chicken wings in the oven, that the only true wing is deep-fried. This is nonsense. Deep-fried chicken wings are awesome, and a good reason to go to a bar that serves them to watch football while you eat. But you …
Read More »This Giant Jam Bun Makes a Party Out of Teatime
What do you call a scone crossed with a jam cake and a cinnamon roll? The first time I tried it, I called it a Franken-scone. The pastry flattened, and the jam oozed like gloppy magma, burning at the edges of the pan. I had to resort to a butter …
Read More »The Hard-Shell Taco Deserves Your Respect
Bar A Tí is a serious taqueria: fresh blue-corn masa, a dark and cryptic mole that ferments for a full school year, duck confit, the works. The crispy taco, however, is a crinkled half-moon of braised beef shank flickering with garlic, chiles and cilantro under a heavy fringe of neon …
Read More »Hate Noisy Restaurants? Stick This in Your Ear.
Booking a table for two at Tao Downtown, I hesitated when I got to the box asking whether I had a special request. I did, but I wasn’t sure how it would go down. Would I be the first customer in history to ask for a noisy table? This is …
Read More »How to Fall in Love With Lentils
I had my first lentil as an adult, and I want to say it was somewhere in France. (My mom, a terrific Japanese home cook, didn’t keep dried or canned lentils in the pantry; they didn’t figure much into her cooking, nor mine when I moved out.) I think those …
Read More »What to Do With That Apple-Picking Haul
Good morning. It was a perfect weekend in New York City: dinner at Torrisi, no alarm in the morning, a late breakfast at Ba Xuyen, a long walk along the beach at Fort Tilden. Then, soft meatballs and freezing cold martinis at Cozy Royale, followed by Soul Coughing at Brooklyn …
Read More »What’s on the Menu? These Restaurants Aren’t Telling.
There are several bits of information you might wish to know before going to a restaurant. For example: When does it open? What can you eat there, and how much does it cost? These are just the sort of details that appear on a restaurant’s website, traditionally a digital repository …
Read More »