Food

Peanut Butter Walks Into a Chocolate Cookie Bar

One of my most favorite cookies in the whole wide world is the dark chocolate peanut butter chip cookie at Levain Bakery in New York. It’s the chocolate-peanut butter combo, of course, but it’s also the fact that this massive cookie, with its fudgy, soft center, kind of qualifies as …

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Mithai, a Diwali Staple, Sheds Its Too-Sweet Reputation

The brightly hued sweets at a mithai shop — Barbie-pink spheres of chum chum, silver-glazed diamonds of kaju katli and golden laddoos glistening with ghee — are the stuff of childhood dreams. They certainly were for Pooja Bavishi, who owns Malai Ice Cream, a scoop shop in Brooklyn and Washington, …

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You Don’t Have to Deep-Fry Your Wings

Good morning. You’ll sometimes hear that you can’t make proper chicken wings in the oven, that the only true wing is deep-fried. This is nonsense. Deep-fried chicken wings are awesome, and a good reason to go to a bar that serves them to watch football while you eat. But you …

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This Giant Jam Bun Makes a Party Out of Teatime

What do you call a scone crossed with a jam cake and a cinnamon roll? The first time I tried it, I called it a Franken-scone. The pastry flattened, and the jam oozed like gloppy magma, burning at the edges of the pan. I had to resort to a butter …

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The Hard-Shell Taco Deserves Your Respect

Bar A Tí is a serious taqueria: fresh blue-corn masa, a dark and cryptic mole that ferments for a full school year, duck confit, the works. The crispy taco, however, is a crinkled half-moon of braised beef shank flickering with garlic, chiles and cilantro under a heavy fringe of neon …

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Hate Noisy Restaurants? Stick This in Your Ear.

Booking a table for two at Tao Downtown, I hesitated when I got to the box asking whether I had a special request. I did, but I wasn’t sure how it would go down. Would I be the first customer in history to ask for a noisy table? This is …

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How to Fall in Love With Lentils

I had my first lentil as an adult, and I want to say it was somewhere in France. (My mom, a terrific Japanese home cook, didn’t keep dried or canned lentils in the pantry; they didn’t figure much into her cooking, nor mine when I moved out.) I think those …

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What to Do With That Apple-Picking Haul

Good morning. It was a perfect weekend in New York City: dinner at Torrisi, no alarm in the morning, a late breakfast at Ba Xuyen, a long walk along the beach at Fort Tilden. Then, soft meatballs and freezing cold martinis at Cozy Royale, followed by Soul Coughing at Brooklyn …

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What’s on the Menu? These Restaurants Aren’t Telling.

There are several bits of information you might wish to know before going to a restaurant. For example: When does it open? What can you eat there, and how much does it cost? These are just the sort of details that appear on a restaurant’s website, traditionally a digital repository …

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