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Good morning. It was a perfect weekend in New York City: dinner at Torrisi, no alarm in the morning, a late breakfast at Ba Xuyen, a long walk along the beach at Fort Tilden. Then, soft meatballs and freezing cold martinis at Cozy Royale, followed by Soul Coughing at Brooklyn Steel. Super bon bon.
No alarm on Sunday morning either! Walked the dogs, trimmed a hedge, made like President Barack Obama with the almonds for lunch, then free-styled dinner.
But that was last weekend. This one arrives heartbroken at the destruction wrought by Hurricane Milton and shocked by the weather’s power to destroy. It also welcomes Yom Kippur, which starts at sunset. For those observing, a day of atonement will follow, with reflection and fasting. I hope you’ll look to us for recipes with which to break the fast tomorrow night.
My notion? Carolina Gelen’s new recipe for apple cider chicken with apples and parsnips (above), with a floater of apple cider vinegar added at the end. Sweet with a subtle saltiness and an earthy punch from the parsnips, it’d be lovely paired with a crispy potato kugel.
Featured Recipe
Apple Cider Chicken With Apples and Parsnips
But I get it if you’d prefer bagels and lox, ideally served with Ali Slagle’s everything bagel smoked-salmon dip alongside them, and a deep bowl of Zabar’s-style egg salad. Or Melissa Clark’s onion quiche? So great.
Other things to cook this weekend: marble cake; trout with chive butter; masala black-eyed peas. I love a smoky fish chowder this time of year.
And when was the last time you made focaccia? Genevieve Ko’s recipe brings it to you fast and easy. Just add deli meats, cheese and pesto and you’ll be all set for the Giants-Bengals game on the couch.
If none of that tickles your fancy, you could always riff on a recipe I read in Melissa Martin’s excellent new Cajun cookbook, “Bayou,” out last month: Worcestershire-spiked hamburgers in gravy with caramelized onions, hoo boy.
This was simple, delicious, a ’50s-throwback meal. To start, caramelize onions. Caramelize them deeply. Then mix up some not-lean ground beef with Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, onion and garlic powders, and fry a few burgers of that in the same pan, searing them hard but not cooking them through. Put the burgers next to the onions on a plate, then hit the pan with some butter and flour to make a little roux, adding stock to make a gravy. Return the meat and the onions to the pan and heat it all through. Serve a burger, each topped with onions and gravy, next to mashed potatoes. You’ll want the book after eating dinner, I’m guessing.
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Now, it’s nothing to do with bialys or sassafras, but I read another Tim Johnston novel, his first, “Descent,” and commend it to anyone who enjoys dark thrillers with big, human hearts.
Why, yes, I would like to have an electrified vintage Ford Bronco in my garage. Rosecrans Baldwin, in GQ, wrote about the company that’s building them, albeit at a price point well beyond my means.
Dwight Garner, in The New York Times Book Review, had a great time reviewing a new oral history of The New York Post, “Paper of Wreckage,” by Susan Mulcahy and Frank DiGiacomo.
Finally (of course), here’s some vintage Soul Coughing to play us off, “Screenwriter’s Blues.” Enjoy that and I’ll see you on Sunday.
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